Lady&#39;s garment



Fells, 1949.

LADY S GARMENT Filed May 8, 1 946 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 glNVENTOR A ORNEYs D. GOURDON 2,460,882 I D. GOURDON LADYS GARMENT Feb. 8, 1949.

I 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed May 8, 1946 IN VEN TOR 47'7'0/P/Vf/5 Patented Feb. 8, 1949 UNITED STATES LADYS GARMENT I Dorine Gourdon', New York, .Ymassignortofl he- P'arhizon Corporation, ;N ew Yorinltl. ;Y., a cor- I poration of New York Application May-8, 1946, Serial Ne. stems:-

4 Claims.

This; invention relates to an improvement; in

vide a garment in which there are no vertical seams in the body section which would tend to flatten body curves and contours and restrain freedom of action.

Another object or" the invention is toprovide a garment wherein the seams are placed in the body section where restraint is necessary but do not appear where such restraint would impede freedom of movement.

A further object is to provide a garment wherein the location of the seams emphasize the desired curves or contours'of the feminine body;

An additional object of the invention is toprovide a garment construction in which the back.

yoke has a 45 degree bias which allows for greatest stretch Where this stretch is essential for fit and comfort. This full stretch gradually diminishes as the yoke curves into the front midriff' so that a substantially straight or nonstretching grain is provided where it is desirable to keep the garment in form and non-sagging.

Another object of the invention is to provide a garment having a substantially straight grain running from the point in the back where the shoulder strap is sewn to the outermost point of 'the midriif providing thus an anchor and thereby holding the garment in its proper place.

To the accomplishment of the foregoing and such other objects as may hereinafter appear, this invention consists. in the novel construction and arrangement of parts hereinafter to be described and then sought to bedefined in the ap-- pended claims, reference being had'to the accompanying drawin forming a part hereof, which shows, merely for the purposes of illustrative dis.- closure, apreferred embodiment of the invention, it being expressly understood, however,- that changes may be'made in practice within the scopeof the claims without digressing from the, inventive idea...

acters denote: corresponding parts:

Riga 1115, a front theinven-tion;

. theiinvention; and n Fig. 3 is a lplanivie/w of the sheetiot materiah from. which the Ithreeparts forming; the slip-are.- cut, showingithe patternsapplied theretoifor-the. o fr'ontljback andibodice. parts so that proper. bias of the parts isprovide'di.

Referring to the drawing, theslip comprises a front panell Hi, cut from the sheet S sothatlits warp'andwopflthreads' are at substantially a45- lagdeglfee bias with the selvageofithe sheet This.- front p anel"h'as. a skirt portion slc'f flaring at its; sides It, I-3 in usualmanner toward T the bottom edge I i. h' itsmidrifi portion Mjvth'e 'panelhas oppositely" located cut-outs l5, it! having the zogicurved edges il', lii'that extend from" the facing apicies i9, 29'; The opposite edges 2t, 22 extend upwardly away from these apijces toward the angulardarts 2 5, Theedges 21, 28'-sl'op' eup'- ggeward-ly -in reverse direction' from the apices- 23, 24*

to the upper apices 29, 3B. The edges 3!, 32 slope inwardly f-rom the" upper apices "295- 30 to the neck apex- 113.- The edges-of the darts 25, 25' are-sewed together'sothat the respective-edges 2 zz iorm icontinuous lines from the respective apices It} 25 to apices 2 3 24 t'oform in the upper" erbust" receiving portion of the panel-P thebrea'st cups U; V ofcthe-garment.

Bhe rear panel 35- also is-cut fromsheet Eton 511;],45" bias I and" has flaring side edges 36; 31' ter-f minating in th'e bottom edge-S'Fand upper curved edges? as; 401 extending: from: the opposite side edges to an apex 4| that on the assembled gar merit-lies opposite the midriif portion of "the ifront'panel I 0.

The bodice panel 43:.also cut-from sh'cet Son a 45 bias has ae-back portionxM whose lower. edges 45-, 46 are. complementary with the upper curved H edges'39', flllfof'the rear panel 35. The oppositely I extendingflaps- 41, 48: havelower edgesr4'5', 46 which areextensions. respectively of curved'edges: 45,246 and whose curvature/is complei'nentary tov the"curvature-of: edges l1; lBof the front panel: The'respective: flaps 4'1 48 havetupperr edges 49, 48 *respectivelyextending fromaapices 5 3, 54 which; areqcomplementaryin shape tothe curvededges' 2|, 22 of the front panel 10 formed when the-darts 2 5; 26Ehavebeen closed and the edges-g5 l 52 adjacentrtheapices53j54eextend in parallelismwitm Inthe .girawing which similar reference chare elevation of a. slip I embodying Efig. 2 13 arear-elevation-bf a slip embodying.

outer apices; 2 3; 24; being interrupted bythet rirespect-iveiedges; 2!;22 adjacentrrespective:apices I9, 20. The edges 5!, 52 are joined respectively to edges 56, 55 and the latter edges 56, 55 extend respectively to apices 51, 58 and then as edges 59, 60, to an apex 6|. The triangular flaps 62, 6 3 defined by the respective edges 55, 59 and 56, G lie substantially aligned with the corresponding triangular flaps formed by the respective edges 21, 3| and 28, 32 of the front panel 10.

Shoulder straps 64, 55 are attached to the pairs of apices 29, 51 and 30, 58.

In assembling the garment the rear panel 35 is sewed to the front panel In along the respective matching edges I2, 36 and i3, 31 forming side seams A and B in the skirt portion of the slip. The complementary edges 39, 46 and 40, 45 of the rear panel 35 and bodice panel 43 are sewed together to form the rear seams C, D.

The edges of the respective darts 25, 26 are sewed together to form seams E, F and the continuous curved edges 2f, 22. Then the flaps 41, 48 are bent around and sewed along their curved edges 49, 50 to the curved edges l1, 18 of the front panel to form seams G, H and the curved edges 50, 49 are sewed to the edges 2|, 22 to form the seams J, K. The edges 52 are not visible on the external face of the garment as they provide fora seam allowance in making seams J, K. These edges 5|, 52 extend parallel to edges 2|, 22 inside the garment. The shoulder straps 64, 65 are then attached to the apices 29, 51 and 30, 58 of the front panel [0 and bodice panel 43 completing the garment.

Since all three panels are cut originally at a bias from the sheet S, they have the bias in the finished garment illustrated by the respective bias lines R, T, W shown in Figs. 1 and 2. As can be seen from Fig. 1, the bias of the front panel denoted by the bias line R. is substantially at right angles to the bias of the flaps 41, 48 denoted by bias line W. As can be seen from Fig. 2, the bias 4 therefore, of limitation to the exact details shown and described.

What is claimed is:

l. A ladys garment of three bias cut fabric panels combined together to form the garment comprising a front panel of bias cut fabric having a skirt portion, a midriff portion and an upper bust portion, the midriff portion having cut-out portions with curved lower edges extending inwardly from opposite side edges, and the upper portion having darts whose edges are joined to define upper curved edges for said cut-out portions, a rear panel of bias cut fabric corresponding substantially in shape with the skirt portion of said front panel and joined along its side edges to corresponding side edges of the skirt portion, and having upper curved edges,

of the rear panel 35 denoted by bias line T is at 7 right angles to that of the front panel 10. The bias lines of the front and rear panels from the side seams A, B extend at right angles to each other.

The seams J and K are located as to lie preferably below the wearers breast lines and the bust portion B of the front panel which formed into cups U, V by the darts 25, 26 act as supports for the wearers bust while the flaps 41, 48 fit snugly about the midriff portion of the wearers body.

The three-piece garment formed by the three panels described accomplishes all the objects defined at the outset of this specification. Furthermore, fewer seams and consequently less sewing is required to assemble the garment from the panels.

Inasmuch as the seams in the construction described are stronger than the fabric, they are purposely so placed and are continuous as described so that the garment is not displaced nor has it any tendency'to twist when the wearer moves. This is so because the lines of force and the stresses and strains to which the fabric may be subject are channelled into the seams and accordingly dissipate along their continuous and interposing lines; resulting thereby in effecting a resistance to displacement of the dissipation of these lines of force and stresses and strains in the seams, rather than through the body of the garment.

a While a specific embodiment has been disclosed, variations within the scope of the claims is possibleand is contemplated. There is no intention,

and a unitary bodice panel of bias cut fabric having a rear portion whose lowermost edges are substantially complementary with and joined to the upper curved edges of said rear skirt panel,

and said bodice panel having oppositely extending flaps substantially complementary in shape to the cut-out portions of said front panel, said flaps being bent to fit into said cut-out portions and being joined to the latter along the upper and lower curved edges thereof.

2. A ladys garment of three fabric panels combined together to form the garment comprising a front panel of fabric having a skirt portion, a

midrifi portion and an upper bust portion, the midrifi portion having cut-out portions with curved lower edges extending inwardly from opposite side edges, and the upper portion having darts whose edges are joined to define upper curved edges for said cut-out portions, a rear panel of fabric corresponding substantially inv shape with the skirt portion of said front panel and joined along its side edges to corresponding side edges of the skirt portion, and having upper curved edges, and a unitary bodice panel of fabric having a rear portion whose lowermost edges are substantially complementary with and joined to the upper curved edges of said rear skirt panel, and said bodice panel having oppositely extending flaps complementary in shape to the cut-out portions of said front panel, said flaps being bent around the sides and toward the front to fit into said cut-out portions and being joined to the latter along the upper and lower curved edges thereof.

3. A ladys garment of three fabric panels combined together to form the garment comprising a front panel of fabric having a flaring skirt portion, a midriif portion and an upper bust portion, the midrifi portion having cut-out portions with curved lower edges extending inwardly from opposite edges thereof, the bust portion having a unitary bodice panel of fabric having a rear portion whose lowermost edges are substantially complementary with and sewed to the upper most edges of said rear skirt panel, and having oppositely extending flaps whose curved edges are substantially complementary with and sewed to corresponding substantially complementary curved edges of said front panel in its front portion, said flaps being adapted in the assembled garment to lie at the side and front of the body of the wearer and in the midrifl section I below the wearers bust. I v

4. A ladys garment of three bias cut fabric panels combined together to form the garment comprising a front panel of fabric having a flaring skirt portion, a midrilf portion and an upper bust portion, the midriff portion having cut-out portions with curved lower edges extending inwardly from opposite edges thereof, the bust portion having triangular darts whose edges are joined to define bust-receiving cups whose lowermost edges are curved and constitute the,

curved upper edges of said cut-out portions, 2.

rear panel of bias cut fabric corresponding substantially in shape with the flaring skirt portion of said front panel and sewed along its side edges to corresponding side edges of said front skirt portion, and having curved upper edges terminating in an apex lying opposite the midrifl portion of said front panel, and a unitary bodice panel 'of bias cut fabric having a rear portion whose lowermost edges are complementarywith and sewed to the uppermost edges of said rear 6 skirt panel, and having oppositely extending flaps whose curved edges are sewed to corresponding curved edges of said front panel in its front por-.

tion, said flaps being adapted in the assembled garment to lie at the side and front of the body of the wearer and in the midriff section below the ,wearers bust and with the bias directions of the flames joined to said front panel substantially opposite to the bias direction of said front panel. I

V DORINE GOURDON.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are ofrecord in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES-PATEN S 7 Number Name Date 1,877,745 Garfinkel Sept. 13, 1932 2,053,365 DAmato Sept. 8, 1936 2,331,853 Strong Oct. 12, 1943 2,331,856 Strong Oct. 12, 1943 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 838,134 France Nov. 28, 1938 

